OK. Now let’s talk about Manta, Ecuador. Manta is a mid-sized city in Manabí Province, Ecuador. It is the second most populous city in the province, the fifth most populous in the country (population currently is about 217,500). Manta has existed since Pre-Colombian times. It was a trading post for the local indigenous population, the Mantas.
Ecuador actually has three major exports: oil; bananas; and, roses. Manta actually has the distinction of being the tuna capital of the world.
They tell us that more tuna is processed through here than anywhere else in the world. Actually, all you have to do is sniff once or twice and you’ll be convinced. This is not the fabulously expensive tuna that the Japanese pay thousands of dollars per fish for, but is Bonito and Albacore – the long skinny ones that are sliced up and slid into those little round cans…seriously, they are the smaller tuna than the yellwfin or bluefin, and, no, they don’t come can-ready, but look like any other fish.
here are a few pictures of the tuna fleet:
This is but a portion of the tuna fleet. They go out in these huge factory ships and catch the fish with large seine nets, haul aboard, and flash freeze, then come home several weeks later to unload and go out again.
You can see just how large these tuna trawlers are from the size of the men, vehicles, and cranes.
The fish are transferred from the ship’s hold into insulated trailers for transport to the processing and canning factory several miles inland from the docks.
As for the “Panama” hats, the real story is that when then-President Teddy Roosevelt came to Panama to see how “his” canal project was going, he received several delegations from a few of the nearby countries. He was the first President to visit a country outside the US. One of those delegations was from Ecuador. Naturally, they brought along some trade trinkets and local crafts, among which were a couple of the locally-woven grass hats. Naturally, Teddy wore one on the job and continued to do so upon his return to the states. When asked where he acquired such a beautiful piece of finery, he responded “In Panama!”, and thus was born the “Panama” hat.
There was one woman in the crafts market demonstrating how these hats are handmade. She bends over a gizmo that sort of looks like a piano stool and hand weaves the hat. Every few minutes she has to stand to catch her breath and stretch. The large stone between her chest and the top of the hat holds the weaving in place when she takes a break. These women have been doing this for centuries and they learn as children. This woman looked to be about 25 or 30…just kidding, she was actually in her late fifties. Depending on the tightness and intricacy of the weave, one hat can take from two days to two months to make. They range in price from about $35 to over $200.
Since we had been to Manta several years ago on our South America/Antarctica/Amazon trip, we didn’t sign up for any of the day tours on the ship. Instead, we accompanied the Silversea corporate chef, who was aboard for the first two legs of the trip, to the local market. The market was a two-story affair with the meat and fish stalls on the first floor and the produce, spices, and eating areas on the second. We spent about an hour touring and buying fruits and vegetables for later in the day. Chef would not tell us what he was planning to add to the menu, but assured us that it would be tasty.
Here are some pictures from the food market:
This is a typical meat stall. There is no refrigeration and no protection from flying things. In addition, the vendors tend to paw the product to show how fresh it is… We were told that people shop every day for that evening’s meal and anything that is not sold is wasted.
A fishmonger with his daily stock of tuna. When he is sold out, he is through for the day.
Two chicken vendors. The meat stalls are along one wall. The chicken is along another and the fish is in its own area.
Our Lady of the Chichrones. She was actually quite delightful, but because she had some dental issues, this about all she would smile. The hanging strips are pigskin. The counter has feet, ears, and snouts…ummmm…
A young man with a huge papaya. We were struck, as we have often been, with the size and quality of the fruits and vegetables in this and most other foreign markets. For some reason ,we just don’t seem to be able to get that fresh quality in the US.
This lady kept up a constant patter, or chant. She was one of the more popular vendors in the market.
After our market tour, we stopped at the main plaza and strolled through the handicraft market. In both the food market and the handicraft market we were struck by the people: open; friendly; not pushy. Bonnie found a new Panama hat and I found absolutely nothing that I could not live without.
After the handicrafts, it was the shuttle back to the ship for lunch, catching up on this blog, a nap, drinks (some things must be tolerated), and dinner.
Coincidentally, we were moored at a dock directly beside one of our other favorite ships: the Holland America ms Prinsendam. We had, for years, thought that the Prinsendam was the epitome of cruising. It is still a very nice ship, but the Silver Whisper makes it pale by comparison:
Ship: ms Prinsendam ms Silver Whisper Ratios: Whisper to Prinsendam
Gross Tonnage: 38,848 8,258 Whisper about 3/4 the Prinsendam
Number of decks: 9 10 N/A
Passengers: 793 382 About half as many passengers
Crew: 443 295 1.79 pass./crew for Prinsendam; 1.29 pass./crew for Whisper
The two ships are almost the same size in terms of gross tonnage, but the Whisper carries about half as many passengers.
Tomorrow we have a sea day and then several days in Lima, Peru.
Stay tuned…
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